Leelanau County: Dunes, Trails and Coastal History

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore lies on the northeastern shore of Lake Michigan in Leelanau and Benzie counties. Rivers, sandy beaches, beech-maple forests, clear lakes and shoreline bluffs shape the protected area; the namesake dunes sit on glacial moraines and were formed by wind and water. Along the lakeshore, these landforms come together in a landscape whose origins are easy to appreciate while taking in the surroundings.

Dunes, Lakes and Trails

Leelanau State Park also combines a striking coastal setting with trails through nature: It covers more than 1,550 acres on Lake Michigan, at the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula. The Cathead Bay trail network is in its southern unit. A sandy beach there is accessible via the Lake Michigan Trail. Clay Cliffs Natural Area offers a different perspective: From there, visitors can enjoy views of Lake Leelanau and Lake Michigan, while the area protects a rare, sensitive ecosystem on a clay bluff.

Visitors who want to explore different dune formations can find active, stabilized, open, ridged, perched and blowout dunes at Houdek Dunes Natural Area. The trail network is 3.3 miles long and includes sections ranging from easy to challenging. Palmer Woods Forest Reserve offers activities across several seasons: hiking, mountain biking, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Nearly five miles of its boundary run along Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

The trails at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore vary considerably in length and character. Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail stretches about 22 miles between Empire and Bohemian Road (CR-669). It is mostly paved; a short section through the Port Oneida Rural Historic District consists of firmly compacted gravel. The trail is designed for pedestrians, runners, cross-country skiers, cyclists, wheelchair users and people with babies in strollers, and is accessible.

For a shorter, clearly defined hike, Sleeping Bear Point Trail offers a 2.8-mile loop and an approximately 0.5-mile spur to Lake Michigan. Two other Old Indian Trail loops are each 2.3 miles long and follow the ridges of wooded ancient dunes. The trail also traces a section created by early Indigenous residents along the coast and between fishing and camping sites. At Alligator Hill, nine miles of hiking trails wind through a hilly, wooded ridge; along the way, visitors can enjoy views of Lake Michigan and Big Glen Lake. From December 1 through March 31, Alligator Hill is designated as a cross-country ski trail.

The destinations themselves also differ: Pyramid Point Trail offers a viewpoint overlooking Lake Michigan and the Manitou Islands. At Dune Climb, there is a safe section of pure, windblown sand for climbing. A canoe or kayak is the best way to experience the Crystal River; check conditions at access points and with outfitters before setting out.

Maritime Heritage and Seasonal Visits

Fishtown brings the fishing heritage of Lake Michigan to life: Weathered fishing shanties and smokehouses stand beside docks extending over the water, as well as fishing tugs and charter boats along the Leland River. Visitors can walk through the buildings and along the docks. Leelanau Historical Society & Museum is located on the Leland River, two blocks from historic Fishtown and Lake Michigan.

Grand Traverse Lighthouse is designated a national and state historic site. Tours of the restored keeper’s dwelling and lighthouse tower are available seasonally; dates and hours may vary. In Glen Haven, several historic buildings preserve the history of the settlement and are open to visitors. They are open and staffed from Memorial Day through Labor Day; check seasonal operating hours before your trip.

The Maritime Museum is located in the Sleeping Bear Point U.S. Life-Saving Service Station. It explores the history of the U.S. Life-Saving Service, the U.S. Coast Guard and shipping on the Great Lakes. The museum is open seasonally, typically from Memorial Day through Labor Day; hours may change here, too. Those interested in maritime history can explore Fishtown’s fishing heritage and the museum’s exhibits as distinct perspectives on the relationship with the coast.

Getting Your Bearings for the Trip

Leelanau Scenic Heritage Route passes through the rural landscape and distinctive villages of Leelanau County and also includes Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The 17-mile paved Leelanau Trail connects Suttons Bay and Traverse City. The two are different ways to get your bearings: a route through landscapes and villages, and a paved trail between two places.

Most visitors travel to and around Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore by car, RV or motorcycle. If you plan to visit several viewpoints or trails, it helps to compare the individual destinations and their trail lengths in advance. This makes it easier to plan a trip around the landscapes, historic sites and activities that interest you most.

Discover more destinations: Glen Arbor, Sanilac County, Menominee County, Luce County, Houghton, Oakland, Ogemaw County, Barry County.

For the main travel overview: Michigan.