Onsernone: Hiking, Forest Reserve and Cultural Heritage

Onsernone is in the Swiss canton of Ticino, near Locarno. The Valle Onsernone is characterised by dense forests, gorges and white water. Its villages sit on sunny terraces and showcase traditional architecture; the road through the valley leads all the way to Spruga. A trip here brings together cultural history in the villages, hiking trails and mountain landscapes. When planning, you can consider whether you mainly want to spend time outdoors, visit historic places or learn more about crafts and local mills.

Forest Reserve and Hikes

The dell’Onsernone Forest Reserve was established on 15 July 2002 in the upper Valle Onsernone, opposite Comologno. It covers 781 hectares and is one of the largest forest reserves in Switzerland. Beech and mixed broadleaf forests, stands of silver fir and larch forests extend up to the upper tree line at around 2,000 metres. Economic activity is prohibited in the reserve; mushroom and berry picking, as well as hunting, are still permitted. The landscape of the Valle Onsernone combines these forest areas with the gorges and white water of the valley.

The one-day mountain hike from Spruga to Alpe Saléi and on to Comologno passes Laghetto di Salèi. On hot summer days, you can cool off at the alpine lake; the route also offers the option of climbing Pizzo Zucchero. In Comologno, the Church of San Giovanni Battista and the chapels along its Stations of the Cross are possible stops. The Stations of the Cross are considered a short pilgrimage route. Plants and animals thrive largely undisturbed in this remote section of the valley, and the natural environment is described as almost untouched. Conditions on the route can vary depending on the weather and time of year.

The challenging circular hike from Vergeletto to Capanna Ribia and back to Vergeletto requires a different amount of time: it is described as a two-day route starting and ending in Vergeletto. The trail passes through beech and birch forests and, from Alp del Pianaccio onwards, through larch forest that turns golden yellow in autumn. This means there are two distinct hiking options: a one-day mountain hike from Spruga and a challenging two-day loop from Vergeletto.

The Via delle Vose also combines hiking with the history of the valley. The Loco–Vosa–Intragna route follows an old market road. In the past, the valley’s residents used this mule track to transport goods to the port of Ascona and the market in Locarno. If you prefer cycling, consider the Locarno–Vergeletto cycling loop: it reaches Vergeletto and can be extended for about six kilometres to Casone, where the gradient is four per cent.

Museums, Crafts and Historic Places

The Museo Onsernonese, at the entrance to the village of Loco, traces the history of Onsernone across ten exhibition rooms. It is one of the eleven regional ethnographic museums recognised by the canton of Ticino. The collections cover, among other things, the straw industry, traditional women’s clothing, emigration, farming and daily life. They also include sacred art and works by European cultural figures who were connected with Onsernone. The museum thus offers insights into various aspects of the valley’s history, not just a single economic sector.

In Berzona, the settlement and the surrounding terraces are considered a valuable natural and cultural heritage site. They bear witness to agro-pastoral subsistence farming and straw processing. Pagliarte offers a guided visit featuring local specialities. You can watch a straw hat being sewn and learn about the traditional processing of straw. Be sure to confirm the booking details for the visit before your trip. Berzona is also home to Pagliarte’s workshop shop, which sells traditional and modern hats, bags, belts, placemats and children’s crowns; you can also check the latest visitor information in advance.

Comologno preserves historic patrician residences. Palazzo della Barca is one of these houses and can be visited or admired; access to the interior may vary. Palazzo Gamboni was restored in its original style and converted into a hotel. If you are considering staying there, check its current accommodation status separately.

Plan Your Visit to the Mills and the Valley

At Parco dei Mulini di Vergeletto, you can visit the mills year-round without a guide; information panels explain their history. Guided tours cover the site’s history and the production of Farina Bóna. As visitor information may change, it is advisable to confirm the details before your visit. In Vergeletto, production of Farina Bóna has resumed at a mill. Since 1991, the restored mill in Loco has used historic millstones to grind corn into polenta flour. The Museo Onsernonese also supports the revival of traditional Farina Bóna, an aromatic flour made from finely ground roasted corn kernels.

The more remote parts of the Onsernone Valley can be reached by public transport via Bellinzona and Locarno. From Locarno station, you can take PostBus 324 towards Spruga. Route numbers and timetables may change, so check the connections before you travel. Along with the valley’s varied hiking and cultural offerings, this information can help you plan your stay around the places and activities that interest you most.

Discover more destinations: Brione Sopra Minusio, Isorno, Piazzogna, Vergeletto, Ronco Sopra Ascona, Caviano, San Nazzaro, Tenero-Contra.

Back to the main travel overview: Locarno.