Sils im Domleschg: Discover Castles and Rock Art

Sils im Domleschg is a political municipality in the Viamala region of the canton of Graubünden. The municipality is associated with Baldenstein Castle, the ruins of Campell Castle, Hohen Rätien Castle and Ehrenfels Castle. It is also home to the prehistoric rock art of Carschenna, hiking trails, a viewpoint and the Kunsthalle an der Albula. The area thus offers everything from castles and archaeological sites to art. When planning your trip, it is worth considering the visitor arrangements and the type of trails separately.

Castles and different visitor arrangements

Campi, the ruins of Campell Castle, lies at the entrance to the Schinschlucht gorge and is open to the public. It is also a heritage site of national importance. Check locally whether access is available before travelling. Baldenstein Castle is quite different: it is privately owned and not open to the public. The castle tower can be dated to the 12th century. The two sites therefore offer a chance to consider both their architectural history and their respective visitor arrangements without confusing the two.

Ehrenfels Castle has served as a youth hostel since 1954. This history of use adds another aspect to the castles: while Campell is described as an accessible ruin and Baldenstein remains private, Ehrenfels has long been associated with a youth hostel. The year marks the start of this use; it does not indicate that booking is currently possible.

Hike to Hohen Rätien and Carschenna

The hike “From Sils i.D. to Hohen Rätien Castle and the Carschenna rock carvings” begins at the village church in Sils and follows a historic mule track. From Hohen Rätien, the Carschenna rock carvings can be reached on foot in about 45 minutes. This is an approximate walking time and may vary depending on conditions; trail conditions may also change with the seasons. Take this into account when planning rather than treating the time as a fixed estimate.

The rock art is located on a hill east of and above Sils im Domleschg, right at the edge of a precipice several hundred metres deep. The motifs mainly include concentric rings with a cup mark in the centre, as well as animal depictions. The Carschenna rock art is among Switzerland’s most important prehistoric sites. Its location and motifs offer a different focus from the architectural history of the castles.

Trails, views and art

The Domleschg Castle Trail also passes through Sils im Domleschg. It can be explored in stages and combined with the PostBus. This offers different ways to divide up the route; for specific planning, check the current timetable, as schedules may change. The Castle Trail should be considered a separate route option, not a walking-time estimate for the hike from the village church to Hohen Rätien and Carschenna.

From the Crap Carschenna viewpoint, you can enjoy views of the Domleschg, Thusis and Heinzenberg. Art lovers will find another cultural highlight at the Kunsthalle an der Albula: its gallery space displays sculptures and paintings by Priska Schwab and Claudio Caprez across almost 500 m². Visitors can also visit the artists’ open studio, learn about how their latest works were created and speak with them in person. As visitor arrangements may change, it is advisable to check in advance if a studio visit or conversation is important to your plans.

The wider Domleschg throughout the year

The landscape extends beyond the village: the Domleschg is considered one of Graubünden’s most beautiful and diverse valleys and, thanks to its exceptionally favourable climate, is also known as Graubünden’s orchard. In spring, when the apple trees begin to blossom, mountains still covered in deep snow can be seen in the background. This seasonal contrast between flowering fruit trees and snow-covered mountains adds a landscape perspective on the wider valley to the cultural attractions.

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