Artenara: Caves, Churches and a Ceramic Tradition

Artenara can be explored through a variety of landmarks: rock architecture, religious buildings, crafts and landscapes shape the themes of a trip. Almost the entire municipality lies within Tamadaba Natural Park. At the same time, cave sites and churches tell the story of the island’s long cultural history. Which stops interest you depends on whether you want to focus on archaeological sites, architecture, traditional craft techniques or nature watching.

Rock Chapels and Church Architecture

The Capilla de la Virgen de la Cuevita lies about 500 metres from the town centre and is carved into the rock. It was extended there in the final third of the 19th century; the altar, choir, pulpit and confessional were also carved out of the rock. For the feast of the Virgen de la Cuevita, the image of the Virgin is carried in a procession from the Iglesia de San Matías back to the chapel on the last Sunday in August. The feast takes place in the second half of August. As the specific celebrations may vary, check the dates for the relevant year before travelling.

The Iglesia de San Matías offers a different architectural accent: two square towers made of red Tirma stone frame the building. Inside, a three-nave layout divides the space; the ornate coffered ceiling made of Canary Island pine is designed in the Neo-Mudéjar style. The present-day church was built in 1870, after an earlier chapel had stood on the site since 1630. Its towers were completed in the mid-20th century. These different phases of construction can be traced in a single building.

Archaeological Caves and Their Stories

Risco Caído is an archaeological cave site dating from the troglodyte period, with 21 caves and rock art associated with magical-religious beliefs and fertility cults. In one cave, from the summer solstice to the autumn equinox, a beam of light shines through a small opening in the ceiling and illuminates rock engravings on the walls. Risco Caído is part of the “Risco Caído and the Sacred Mountains of Gran Canaria” cultural landscape, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of the unique value of this key site of Indigenous Canarian culture.

The Cuevas del Caballero also combine cave architecture with views of the landscape. The archaeological group comprises twelve natural caves; most were made habitable through modification. They lie along a south-facing rocky outcrop and offer views of Bentayga and the Nublo basin. Rock art in various forms can be seen in three of the caves. The site is associated with places of great magical-religious significance to the ancient Canarians.

The Cueva de Los Candiles lies on a cliff near Montaña de Artenara. Its walls bear more than 300 engraved female pubic triangles. Access to the interior is restricted to visits by heritage authorities; however, the engravings can be seen from outside through the locked gate. The Museo Etnográfico de las “Casas Cuevas” de Artenara comprises three former dwellings, probably inhabited by the pre-Hispanic population of this place. Inside is furniture typical of the area and period, dating from approximately 50 to 150 years ago. Guided tours are available for groups; contacting the museum in advance is recommended.

Crafts, Viewpoints and Nature

Lugarejos pottery is made by hand, without a potter’s wheel. The raw clay pieces are fired outdoors, not in a Roman kiln. The Centro Locero de Lugarejos was founded in 1994 to revive the pottery tradition after an interruption of nearly 30 years; Mari León continues it today. This example highlights the production technique and the transmission of the craft.

At the Balcón de Unamuno, a sculpture by Manolo González commemorates Miguel de Unamuno, showing him contemplating the landscape thoughtfully. The balcony was created in 1999 as part of the opening of the Ruta de Unamuno on Gran Canaria and commemorates Unamuno’s stay on the island in 1910. Another landmark is the Monumento del Corazón de Jesús. It can be reached via a flight of steps to the right of the entrance to the Mirador de La Cilla; the monument is topped by an eight-and-a-half-metre sculpture erected in 1996.

The landscape and wildlife also offer practical starting points for planning a trip. The Parralillo Reservoir in the Barranco Grande area is of interest to birdwatchers. Species found there include cattle egrets, grey herons, coots, little ringed plovers, sandpipers and yellow-legged gulls. In structure, Mesa de Acusa resembles an ancient volcano: its layers rose considerably and were eroded over time. It is considered a landscape where prehistory, history and biodiversity come together.

Those interested in walking routes will find two specific reference points: the Ruta de Acusa Seca starts at the Plaza de Artenara; the unpaved route to Acusa Seca begins near the cemetery. The route information provided gives starting points and directions, but no walking times. You can plan your trip around the themes you would like to explore on site.

Discover more destinations: Tejeda, La Sorrueda, Telde, Maspalomas, Teror, Rosiana, Lomitos De Correa, La Ladera.

For the main travel overview: Gran Canaria.