Modoc: Lava, Cranes, and History

In Modoc, wildlife watching, volcanic landscapes, and history offer a range of experiences. A loop around a pond, trails through a natural lava fortress, and traces of historic routes each bring a distinct focus to your trip.

Watch wildlife and explore trails

At Modoc National Wildlife Refuge, a three-mile driving tour loops around Teal Pond. You can explore the loop on foot or by bicycle. The driving tour is often considered the best place to see wildlife such as sandhill cranes, ducks, shorebirds, coyotes, and turtles. The highest numbers of sandhill cranes are observed during migration in March and April, and in August and September. If you’re planning your trip around crane watching, check the seasonal timing in advance.

On a different scale, South Warner Wilderness encompasses 70,000 acres of pristine land and more than 75 miles of trails. These figures represent different touring options: a single driving loop at Teal Pond and an extensive trail network. Modoc County’s natural character also includes the rugged Warner Mountains; Surprise Valley is associated with geothermal springs.

Lava Beds and Modoc History

At Lava Beds National Monument, you can visit the site of the last major battle between the Modoc and the United States. Trails lead through Captain Jack’s Stronghold, a natural lava fortress with deep trenches and small caves. Mushpot Cave is lit and features interpretive exhibits, making it easy to visit. The monument preserves parts of the Modoc homeland largely unchanged.

Petroglyph Point also offers a glimpse into the area’s history: most of its pictographs date to a period between 1,500 and 400 years ago. Another historical point of reference is the Modoc War, which lasted six months—from November 29, 1872, to June 1, 1873.

Historic Trails and Sites

At Frémont’s Camp, John C. Frémont’s expedition camped from May 1 to 4, 1846, while traveling from Fort Sutter to Upper Klamath Lake. The party included Kit Carson and other scouts. Fort Bidwell was established in 1865 and operated until 1893. The Old Emigrant Trail is still easy to follow and was part of one of the earliest roads in northeastern California.

The early connection between Cedarville and Alturas can also be traced by its route: the first road between the towns ran from Surprise Valley over the Warner Mountains and followed the alignment of the present-day road. This historic connection is associated with Bonner Grade.

Getting Around and Access

Lava Beds National Monument is accessible via California State Routes 161 and 139. Forest Service Routes 49 and 10 provide seasonal access; these and other access roads are not fully paved. Before driving, check seasonal access, road conditions, and any access restrictions.

For regional orientation, Mill Creek Falls is 0.25 miles from Mill Creek Falls Campground and less than an hour’s drive from Alturas. Another regional point of reference is a 1.7-mile paved multi-use trail, developed with the participation of the County of Modoc, the City of Alturas, and Modoc National Wildlife Refuge. The trail gives Alturas residents access to the refuge and its trail network.

Explore more destinations: New Pine Creek, Mammoth, Alturas, Cedarville, Monterey, Contra Costa, Tehama, Napa.

For the broader travel overview: California.