Papatotara: Hiking and History on the South Coast

If you’re considering Papatotara as a destination for a hiking trip, two very different trails take centre stage: the South Coast Track and the Hump Ridge Track. Both start at Rarakau Car Park; their length, duration and difficulty make them easy to distinguish. Port Craig adds an archaeological site and the history of timber processing to the routes.

Hiking from Rarakau: Routes and Requirements

The first section of the South Coast Track runs from Rarakau Car Park to Port Craig School Hut. It is 20 kilometres long and takes seven hours. This section is described as an easy, family-friendly hike and can also be done as an overnight trip. From the car park, the trail crosses several suspension bridges and passes beaches and headlands before reaching Blowholes Beach. The South Coast Track follows the rugged southern coast of Fiordland to Port Craig and continues to the more remote Big River.

The first day on the Hump Ridge Track runs from Rarakau Car Park to Okaka Lodge: the stage covers 22 kilometres and takes six to eight hours. The Hump Ridge Track is a three-day loop walk that follows the coast of Te Waewae Bay. It passes through native bush and over cliffs before reaching Bluecliffs Beach. The Hump Ridge requires moderate to high fitness; the trip is best suited to people with experience of multi-day hikes in New Zealand.

The estimated times for the two stages described are similar: seven hours for the South Coast section to the hut and six to eight hours for the first day on the Hump Ridge. But the difficulty rating also matters when choosing: the South Coast Track stage is described as easy and family-friendly, while the Hump Ridge requires moderate to high fitness and experience with multi-day hikes. For South Coast sections beyond Port Craig, good to above-average fitness and strong backcountry experience are required, including navigation and survival skills.

Tides and Trail Conditions

At Blowholes Beach, the South Coast Track is accessible only at low tide; plan for the tide when arranging your trip. The coastal sections of the Hump Ridge are also tide-sensitive. Check current conditions before setting out, and consult the official track alerts for the Hump Ridge.

Port Craig and the History of Timber Processing

Near Papatotara is Port Craig, an archaeological site and New Zealand’s most complete surviving sawmill complex. Its surviving historic features include old wharf piles, a baker’s oven, the first sawmill, the chassis of a Lidgerwood cable winch and a Priestman crane on the wharf. The remains provide a tangible connection to the area’s past timber processing.

Port Craig School Hut is now a DOC hut where you can stay overnight. There is also a 20-minute self-guided walk at the hut. The information panels and short walk can offer insights into the history of timber processing in the region.

The South Coast Track also passes traces of this history: it follows an old logging tramway for over 15 kilometres before reaching the Sandhill and Percy Burn viaducts. Access to individual viaducts may change. For travellers interested in historic structures as well as coastal scenery, this section offers a different focus from the stage to Blowholes Beach.

Discover more destinations: Garston, Dipton, Te Anau, Nightcaps, Wyndham, Milford Sound, The Key, Athol.

For the wider travel overview: Southland District.