Chicanná: Maya Architecture and History

Chicanná was a small ancient city and home to the elite. Its archaeological zone brings the site’s history to life through distinctive architectural forms: masks, towers, portals, and rooms arranged in various ways. If you are considering Chicanná as a travel destination, its architecture offers a concrete focus for planning your visit.

History and Context

Human settlement began in the Late Preclassic period, dated from 400 BCE to 250 CE, and continued until around 1100 CE. Several of Chicanná’s buildings were constructed in more than one phase. The architecture and associated ceramics point to the Río Bec tradition. At the same time, the pre-Hispanic settlement was a suburb of Becán; its central buildings were arranged in small groups.

Plaza A also helps put the site’s former use into context. The plaza was Chicanná’s main square. Public events of a civic and ceremonial nature took place there; it also served as a gathering place for the privileged population of the ancient Maya city. In the Río Bec region, Chicanná is counted among the archaeological city-states, together with Becán and El Hormiguero.

Masks and Architectural Forms

Structure I closes off the western side of the main plaza. The elongated building has two rows of three rooms each, as well as two side rooms. Two large towers with rounded corners flank the structure; they were decorated with frontal masks. False stairways lead to false temples. Structure I therefore displays a different architectural form from the richly mask-adorned façades of other buildings.

Structure II stands in the eastern part of the plaza. The single-story building sits on a small platform and has eight rooms; remains of the roof comb have survived. The central façade bears a large mask of Itzamná, regarded in Maya mythology as the creator god. The entrance is also shaped like a mouth: teeth, nose, cross-eyed eyes, forehead, and ear ornaments form a face with an open jaw. Cascades of stone-mosaic Chaac masks run along the sides. They were covered with stucco and painted in several colors, predominantly a vivid red. Remains of red and blue stucco and Maya glyphs have also survived.

Structure XX presents another layout, arranged differently. The nearly square building has two levels: eleven rooms on the lower level and four on the upper level. In the lower rooms, benches are decorated with rosettes framing human faces. On both levels, the main façade has a fully zoomorphic, or animal-shaped, portal. The upper level ends at the sides in cascades of three-dimensional Chaac masks and was crowned by a roof comb. Remains of partially preserved zoomorphic portals are visible on the side and rear façades. An interior staircase splits to the sides, allowing access to the upper rooms from outside the building.

Location and Visitor Information

The archaeological zone is located at kilometer 141 of Federal Highway 186, which connects Escárcega in Campeche with Chetumal in Quintana Roo. The central area is 500 meters south of the highway. An unpaved road leads there to the INAH entrance ticket booth and is passable year-round. Check road and transportation conditions before you travel. It is possible to arrive by public transport; visitors must then walk to the entrance.

The address is Camino a Chicanná Km 0 + 500 in Chicanná, at the turnoff near kilometer 140 of Federal Highway 186, in the municipality of Calakmul, in the state of Campeche. The archaeological zone has a visitor center, parking lot, and restroom facilities; their operational availability may change. This information can help you plan your journey and include a visit to the buildings in your travel plans.

For the broader travel overview: Campeche.