St. Mary’s: Island History and Coastal Paths

St. Mary’s is the largest island in the archipelago. Topics to consider when planning your trip include fortifications and archaeological traces, as well as paths, wetlands, beaches and activities on the water. This lets you combine an interest in cultural history with time outdoors—or focus on coastal paths and island activities.

Fortifications and archaeological traces

The defences of The Garrison on St. Mary’s have a 350-year history. A circular route around The Garrison offers views of impressive seascapes. The route to the Garrison Walls follows steep, winding roads; the best way to reach them is on foot or by bicycle. Harry’s Walls can also be reached by footpath: access is via an uphill path and is best on foot or by bicycle. Harry’s Walls are part of a fort whose construction began in 1551 during the reign of King Edward VI.

Older traces lie in the northwest of the island. The monument on Halangy Down and Carn Morval Down includes field systems dating from prehistoric times to the Roman period. Bant’s Carn, a prehistoric entrance grave, is on the southwestern ridge of Halangy Down. The settlement on the lower slope of Halangy Down provides evidence of everyday life among the Romano-British population. At Peninnis Head, a monument includes an underground, walled passage dating from the Iron Age to the Romano-British period, known as a fogou. Ennor Castle is a regional distinction: it is the only medieval castle on the Isles of Scilly.

Coastal paths and landscape

At Peninnis Head, several paths wind through gorse and heath; one leads to the lighthouse at the end of the headland. There are several access points on St. Mary’s: by the allotments next to Porthcressa, on King Edward’s Road behind the health centre on Church Road, and in Old Town. King Edward’s Road is considered the most accessible access point. As path conditions can vary, it is worth taking them into account before your visit.

For a longer walk, the entire coastline offers a different scale than a circular route: walking around St. Mary’s along the coast covers approximately 9 or 10 miles, depending on the tides. This distance is an estimate, not a fixed route length. Therefore, do not treat it as a firm planning requirement without taking the tidal conditions into account.

Wetlands, beaches and activities on the water

The Higher Moors & Porth Hellick Pool area has two bird hides overlooking the main pool. A path, a circular route and a boardwalk provide access to the wetland, which also includes wet woodland. Paths run along the shingle shores and continue to the beach. This makes nature watching and a choice of different path sections additional options alongside the coastal routes.

Porthcressa is one of the most accessible beaches from Hugh Town. People use the beach for sunbathing, stand-up paddleboarding and wild swimming; water conditions are changeable. Town Beach by the quay is a good place for beachcombing. On St. Mary’s, you can hire kayaks and dinghies to explore quieter spots around the island. Operators and availability may vary seasonally.

Boats and getting around the island

The St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association is a group of ten independent boat operators. For the main season from May to September, it intends to offer daily services; however, timetables vary with the tides, weather and passenger numbers. Tickets can be bought at St. Mary’s quay or at the tourist information centre on Porthcressa Beach. Check the latest timetable and ticket information before making plans.

The Island-Rover bus tours also provide a seasonal way to get your bearings: during the season, they run twice daily except Sundays, departing from Holgate’s Green. As timetables may change, it is advisable to check the latest times. This lets you plan around the services actually being offered without assuming a particular route or journey time.

Discover more destinations: Hugh Town, Tresco.

See the main travel guide: Isles of Scilly.