Ushguli: Svan Towers, Churches and Routes Toward Shkhara

Ushguli lies at an altitude of 2,200 meters above sea level; routes from here head toward the highest peaks of the Caucasus. The destination combines historic architecture with practical hiking opportunities. When planning a stay, it is worth considering both sides: Svan towers, churches and complexes on the one hand, and route length, walking time and road access on the other.

Cultural Heritage, Churches and Towers

The villages of Chazhashi, Jibiani, Chvibiani and Murkmeli, along with their architectural features, continue to be considered national monuments. The landscape of Chazhashi is protected as part of the World Heritage Site. The Ushguli-Chazhashi Museum Reserve includes residential complexes and an exhibition housed in a tower.

Lamaria, also known as the Ushguli Church of the Mother of God, is a basilica-style building dating from the 9th to 10th centuries. Its defining features include a distinctive tower and a protective fence. The frescoes follow a style characteristic of Svan painting and depict scenes of the Deesis, the Nativity of Christ and the Transfiguration.

A fortress dating from the 12th to 13th centuries is associated with the reign of Queen Tamar. In Chazhashi, the third tower of the castle that served Queen Tamar as a winter residence still stands. Chazhashi is also associated with Queen Tamar’s summer tower; of the associated buildings, only a 10th-century church remains.

Dozens of traditional Svan towers are scattered across the villages of Ushguli. Murkmeli is known as the “village of towers”: of the up to 80 defensive towers that once stood there, ten remain. St. Barbara’s Church in Murqmeli is considered a notable sight within the Ushguli community.

Hiking Routes and Planning Your Time

The Ushguli–Shkhara route starts in Chazhashi, passes through Chvibiani and Zhibiani, and reaches the banks of the Enguri. The Ushguli–Shkhara Glacier–Namkvami Lake hiking route is nine kilometers long and takes seven to eight hours; the actual duration depends on conditions. It leads to the foot of the Shkhara Glacier at an altitude of 2,900 meters. Namkvami Lake, also known as Romisghele Lake, is the last stop on this route, at an altitude of 2,500 meters.

By comparison, the Ushguli–Mami trek is the longer route, at 23 kilometers and ten to twelve hours. Here too, the actual duration varies with conditions. Good physical fitness and an experienced guide are essential for a safe hike. There are no camping spots along the Ushguli–Mami route.

Getting There and Local Highlights

Ushguli is connected to the outside world by the Ushguli–Mestia and Ushguli–Lentekhi roads. Road access is possible for approximately four months of the year; during the other eight months, snow covers the roads. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is required for the drive from Mestia to Chazhashi. If the weather worsens, the road can become almost impassable. So check road conditions before setting out.

Local culture is also reflected in specific details: Kubdari is recognized as an intangible cultural monument of Georgian heritage. Gitsruli, a mountain herb used in Kubdari, grows mainly in the hay meadows of the village of Ushguli.

Discover more destinations: Jvari, Tvebishi, Nashtkoli, Adishi, Chvabiani, Darcheli, Lakhushdi, Chkhorotsku

For the regional travel overview: Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti.